·非遗百问·

86.大红袍制作技艺的历史渊源及制作工艺特点是什么？

答：武夷茶的历史至少可追溯至汉代。唐代民间就有将茶作为馈赠佳品的记载。宋、元时期被列为贡品。元代在武夷山设立“焙局”，开辟“御茶园”。经过历代发展，到清初出现完善的岩茶制作技艺，首开乌龙茶制作的先河。其中，大红袍品质最优，最为名贵。武夷大红袍，因早春茶芽萌发时，远望艳红似火，若红袍披树，故名。最早的大红袍原茶产于福建武夷山东北部天心岩（峰）以西的九龙窠。

大红袍的“岩骨花香”是由武夷山特殊的生态环境、气候条件和精湛的传统制作技艺形成的。其传统制作流程共有 10道工序，环环相扣，不可或缺。为便于记忆，当地茶工将制作工艺归纳为：“一采二倒青，三摇四围水，五炒六揉金，七烘八捡梗，九复十筛分。”其中对茶质起关键作用的是“复式萎凋”“看青做青，看天做青”“走水返阳”“双炒双揉”“低温久烘”等环节。大红袍属于单枞加工、品质特优的“名枞”，各道工序均由手工精制。成品香气浓郁，滋味醇厚，有明显“岩韵”特征，饮后齿颊留香，经久不退。

截至目前，大红袍制作技艺的国家级传承人有：陈德华、叶启桐。

Q86.What are the history and the technical features of Dahongpao tea processing?

Answer: Wuyi rock tea can be traced back to the Han dynasty. Record has it that the tea was gifts among ordinary Tang people, then listed as tribute to emperors in the Song and Yuan dynasties. The Yuan government established official tea processing agencies and royal tea farms in Wuyi Mountain. The early Qing period witnessed the appearance of matured rock tea processing techniques and oolong tea. Dahongpao (the bright red rope), named after its buds’ crimson color in early spring, is the best and most expensive rock tea. It was initially produced in Jiulongchao, west to Tianxin rock of Wuyi.

Dahongpao’s special taste and scent come from the unique ecosystem, climate and tea processing techniques. The traditional process consists of 10 steps. Local workers compiled a memonic, which describes the steps as picking, withering, disruption, oxidation, fixation, rolling, baking, sorting, baking, and final sorting. Details such as double wilting, fixation according to the conditions, and longtime baking under low temperature determine the quality. Wuyi Dahongpao, top-notch Dancong tea, is 100% handmade. It tastes richly and gives a long lasting aroma in your mouth. Even after 9 brews, the sweet flower scent can still be detected.

The current national level inheritors of Dahongpao processing craft are Chen Dehua and Ye Qitong. 

武夷岩茶（大红袍）制作技艺（南平市）

（图片来源于福建省艺术馆——省非遗中心官网）