·非遗百问·

90.惠安女服饰的文化特色是什么？

答：惠安女服饰是指流传于福建惠安县的独特妇女服饰。它源于古代百越文化，融合了中原文化和海洋文化的精华，经过长期的演变和传承而保留下来。惠安女服饰的整体样式定型于唐代，至宋代渐趋成熟。清初发生比较明显的变化，形成款式奇特、装饰特别、色彩协调、纹饰艳丽的基本特征。现在惠安县东沿海的崇武、小岞、净峰 3个乡镇的渔家女及东岭、山霞等地妇女，还保留着这种服饰习俗，其中以崇武的服饰最具特色。 

惠安当地人以“封建头，民主肚，节约衣，浪费裤”的谣谚概括惠安女服饰“衣短露脐”的特征。斗笠是惠安女服饰的标配，主体色彩是纯黄色，非常鲜艳；头巾是服饰中最富特色的部分，正方形（66厘米见方），鲜艳的花纹主要是蓝底白花、绿底白花、 白底绿花等，各不相同，但显得清新、淡雅、悦目；继承中国古代妇女重视首饰的传统；腰饰是用各种色彩的布编织而成的布（塑料）带，宽 7～ 9厘米，斑斓耀眼，也有用银打制成的；裤子主色调为黑色，显得稳重、大方，易于搭配其他衣料及饰物。 

Q90.What are the cultural features of Hui’an women costume?

Answer:Hui’an women costume refers to the clothing unique to women in Hui’an county of Fujian. It originated from ancient Baiyue tribes and absorbed elements from the Han and the marina cultures during its evolvement. Its general pattern was formed in the Tang dynasty and gradually matured in the Song dynasty. In the early Qing period, the style changed significantly and developed features including special designs and decorations, passionate yet harmonious colors.Now fisherwomen in Chongwu, Xiaozuo and Jingfeng coastal towns in eastern Hui’an, and women in Dongling, Shanxia etc. still wear such clothing. Chongwu costume is the most special one.

Hui’an locals describe the costume as having “feudal heads, democratic bellies, thrifty jackets, and wasteful trousers”. Conical bamboo hat, an integral part, is often in pure bright yellow; head bandanna (often 66cm×66cm), the most eye-catching element, is often in fresh pattern and colors; the tradition of valuing accessories is preserved – the waist belt, about 7-9 cm in width, is fabricated with colorful cloths/plastics or even with silver, functioning as a beautiful decoration; the trousers are mostly in black, quite low-profile thus easy to match other parts and decorations. 

惠安女服饰（泉州市）

（图片来源于福建省艺术馆——省非遗中心官网）